May Marvels at Ancient Armenian Monasteries
Prologue
It was time to bid farewell to Georgia and journey to one of the most ancient countries in the world – Armenia. Envoy Hostel has an extremely practical tour package for travellers. They have organised a one-way bus journey to Yerevan (about five hours from Tbilisi) and included sightseeing stops at three ancient monasteries in Northern Armenia on the way there. How good is that? This tour is called Envoy’s Enlinking Caucasus Tour to Yerevan. Alternatively, tourists from Yerevan can book a reverse tour to Tbilisi.
We checked out of our rickety Airbnb and left BOTH keys for the host, Iulia. Since we couldn’t write Russian, she would have to draw her own conclusion that we found the missing key! The pick-up point for our bus was at the usual Meidan Square with the huge “I love Tbilisi” sign. There was a Georgian ‘warrior’ there, all costumed up in black, complete with a small sword. Naturally, photo-hungry tourists could not resist having a photo taken with him (me included)!
Before boarding our van (not bus), I rushed into one of the many cafes nearby to purchase a piece of creamy strawberry cake for breakfast during the journey. Not surprisingly, the 17-seater van was full. Most of our fellow travellers were guests from Envoy Hostel. Our guide was Shusan (, who also called herself Lily).
Mimino Sculpture
As the van drove past Avlabari Square, I caught sight of a three-figure statue standing next to a tall mushroom. This bronze monument was dedicated to the characters of a very famous 1977 Soviet comedy film titled Mimino, meaning 'sparrow hawk'. It was the nickname of the main hero, Valiko Mizandari, who played the role of a Georgian bush pilot with ambitious dreams of piloting international airlines. Together with Armenian truck driver, Ruben Khachikyan, they experienced many adventures in Moscow. I don't know the significance of the mushroom, but a statue of the film’s director, Georgy Daneliya, was erected by suspending him on a platform in the middle of the mushroom. I snapped a quick photo as the van passed them.
Crossing the Georgian-Armenian Border
Now that we were approaching the Georgian-Armenian border, I had to worry about my Visa on Arrival. Australians do not need one but Malaysians do. So do Canadians. Which I thought was surprising! Shusan offered to pay for me because the exchange rates at Customs, according to her, were too high. That was really sweet of her! The visa cost me 3,000 Dram (10 AUD). Note that the Armenian Dram and the Georgian Lari are not traded internationally in open currency markets, so obtaining these currencies before visiting these countries was impossible.
By law, tour buses are supposed to unload all luggage at the border, but Shusan explained that our driver had a ‘special agreement’ with Customs. Hence, only a few pieces of luggage were unloaded for a tokenistic inspection.
The Customs officer scrutinised EVERY SINGLE PAGE of my passport!!! And why do you suppose he did that? It was to ensure that I hadn’t been to Azerbaijan! Anyone with an Azerbaijan stamp is REFUSED entry to Armenia because they have an ongoing conflict with the Azerbaijanis over the disputed region of Nagorno-Karabakh. If you want to get around this rule, enter Armenia with a new passport on a separate trip!
When he was satisfied that I had not set foot on Azerbaijani soil, he proceeded to give me the much-needed stamp of approval. Hooray! I can legally enter Armenia now!
The Customs building wasn’t very big, but I was quite surprised to discover a duty-free shop there. After clearing Customs, the van stopped at a nearby supermarket so that Shusan could buy bottled water for all of us. This was where she recommended that we exchange the currency as the supermarket had smartly integrated this facility for the convenience of tourists.
Akhtala Monastery
Now we were well and truly ready to begin our tour of Northern Armenia. The first monastery was called Akhtala Monastery. It was actually a fortress monastery that stood on a hill surrounded by canyons on three sides. This was both a natural and an ideal location for strategic defence against enemies. Although Akhtala Monastery was invaded twice, overall it played an important role in protecting the north-western regions of Armenia from invasions. It was among the most well-preserved fortresses in modern Armenia.
The name ‘Akhtala’ is of Turkic origin. Its Armenian name is Pghinzavank, meaning ‘copper mine’, because there were rich copper deposits in surrounding areas. Located 185 kilometres north of Yerevan, it is currently an inactive monastery, but back in the 10th century, it functioned as the Armenian Apostolic Church.
The main church in Akhtala Monastery was the Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God Church). Unlike other Armenian churches, which were bare and devoid of frescoes, this church was famous for its highly artistic and colourful Byzantine frescoes. They covered the interior walls, partitions, bearings, arches, niches and columns of this building. Although it started out as an Armenian church, it was converted to a Georgian-Byzantine church, with blue being the dominant colour in the frescoes.
These frescoes and murals were some of the best representations of Byzantine Art outside the traditional borders of the Byzantine Empire. They were painted between 1205 and 1216. The overall colours used were typical of Byzantine Art. All in all, they represented ‘stylish iconography and richness of theme’. Armenian churches employed more frugal thematic solutions but were generous with stone carvings or khachkars.
I was overjoyed to discover that there was no need whatsoever for women to cover their heads or legs when entering an Armenian church. WooHoo! I didn’t have to worry about messing up my hair. However, it was considered impertinent for men to have caps or hats on their heads inside the church. Neither could they have their hands in their pockets! I was amazed to see a man being told off by a priest for having his hands in his pockets.
On the grounds of Akhtala Monastery were two huge entwined bronze rings. They represented friendship rings between Georgia and Armenia. Couples also came here to take photos as the rings signified happiness for a life together.
A group of giggly local Armenian girls took forever to pose for selfies there much to my annoyance. We had time pressure and I just wanted a quick photo of the rings, but they wouldn’t budge! I eventually got my shot of these rings after waiting patiently for them to finish.
Akhtala Monastery Fortress wasn’t very attractive to behold from the exterior. It was dark and aged, with shades of black, brown and grey. However, the frescoes in the interior were mighty impressive and reminded me very much of being inside a Greek Orthodox church.
Due to its location in the far north, it was one of the less frequently visited places despite its rich history, unique architecture and fascinating collection of frescoes (very rare in Armenian churches). On the 21st of September, Caucasus Greeks make an annual pilgrimage here to celebrate the birth of the Virgin Mary.
Haghpat Monastery
Our second monastery was Haghpat Monastery, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1996. Haghpat is a medieval stone monastery complex built between the 10th and 13th centuries. ‘Haghpat’ means ‘huge wall’, acknowledging its hefty fortification. The Kayaberd Fortress was erected right across the monastery to guard its entrance, but it is in a terribly deteriorated state now.
Haghpat Monastery was built halfway up a hillside to provide protection and concealment from prying eyes. It was also a gesture of humility to God. It overlooked the Debed River in the region of Lori. The river flows through Georgia and Armenia, serving as a natural boundary between these two countries. It is also the main river in the north of Armenia. The area around the river varies from low valleys to deep gorges such as Debed Canyon. Haghpat Monastery was founded by Queen Khosrovanuysh (the wife of King Ashot III) in 976 in harmony with the surrounding picturesque landscape.
The largest church in this complex, completed in 991, is called the Cathedral of Surb Nishan (Church of the Holy Cross). A three-storey free-standing bell tower was added in 1245. By the 13th century, its additions included a scriptorium and a book depository to store manuscripts and to copy them. It also included a refectory.
Haghpat was once a large centre for scientific studies and possessed a rich collection of manuscripts. Monks could study medicine, literature, philosophy, music and astronomy. It was an eminent spiritual and cultural centre.
In the 13th century, when Mongols invaded Haghpat, the cool and dark book depository room was converted into a food storage area. Holes were dug into the ground and subsequently, ceramic pots or jars were inserted into these holes (like the Georgian quevris for storing wine). However, in Haghpat, precious manuscripts were hidden inside these jars. They were a safe storage space during assaults on the monastery.
Khachkars or cross stones were aplenty in Armenian churches. They were basically carved stone slabs, usually rectangular, bearing a cross. Most early khachkars were erected for the salvation of the soul, living or deceased. They were also erected to commemorate a military victory, the construction of a church, or as a form of protection from natural disasters. Soft stone was used to make khachkars because it enabled detailed carving. Once completed, the stone was coloured a brilliant red using a dye from crushed insects!
One of the best-known khachkars could be seen in Haghpat Monastery. It was called the Amenaprkich Khachkar (meaning Holy Saviour), depicting a crucified Christ on the cross. It was erected in 1273 and is still standing today at the northern entrance of the Surb Nishan Cathedral. (Generally, the cross always faces the east in Armenian churches).
As I mentioned earlier, Armenian churches were extremely sparse in their interior. This sparseness aimed to prevent the monks from being distracted and to help them stay focused on God. Thus, there were no colourful frescoes in Haghpat Monastery. There is beauty and spirituality to be found in sparseness!
Despite the many attacks, much of the monastery is still intact today without any major alterations or repairs.
Haghpat Monastery is famous for one more thing – the classic Armenian film, Colour of Pomegranates (1969) was shot in one of the chapels here. The door of the chapel, which was made at the director Sergei Parajanov's behest, is still kept here as its entrance. This film was about the life of Sayat Nova, Armenia’s greatest poet and musician.
Haghpat Monastery looked better than Akhtala.
Lunch at Alaverdi
After visiting two ancient monasteries, it was time for lunch. In keeping with Envoy’s tradition, we had lunch at a villager’s house. Our host’s house was on the banks of the Debed River situated in the town of Alaverdi. This was the main town in the Debed Canyon. As usual, the host and his family had cooked up quite a feast for us hungry travellers. Of significance were khorovats ( Armenian barbecued pork ) and gatar (pastry with custard filling)
Our next destination post-lunch was Sanahin Monastery, located in a town of the same name, also situated along the Debed Canyon.
While driving through the town of Alaverdi, we encountered very bad, bumpy roads. This town used to be an important industrial centre during Soviet times. It was transformed into a copper mining town back then due to its plentiful copper deposits.
However, the landscape that greeted our eyes now was full of old, shabby-looking Soviet flats. Derelict Soviet-era infrastructure was sadly noticeable along the Debed River bank. There were tons of old, abandoned copper mines and mining equipment. Mining and smelting activities ceased due to concern over toxic emissions, Lung cancer was also more prevalent here.
Sanahin Monastery
The word ‘Sanahin’ means ‘this one is older than that one’ (referring to Haghpat Monastery). This monastery complex was also built between the 10th and 13th centuries in a style similar to Haghpat Monastery but was older. It consisted of three major churches :
Astvatsatsin Church (Holy Mother of God) built between 928 and 944 in Byzantine style
Amenaprkich Church (Holy Saviour) built between 957 and 966. This main church was also built by Queen Khosrovanuysh, who founded Haghpat Monastery.
St. Grigor Church (Temple of St. Gregory the Illuminator) built in 1061.
Perched on the wooded slopes of Mount Chantin, its location was right across the gorge from Haghpat Monastery. This monastery complex comprised five churches, two gavits, a theological college, a book depository (- the largest in the country), and a bell tower.
A gavit (zhamatun) was an entrance or lobby area located at the west end of the nave opposite the church’s main altar. It was often marked by indoor arches. Although this monastery had an asymmetrical and irregular layout, all the buildings successfully came together to form an organic whole.
Of the ancient monasteries we visited today, I liked Sanahin the best. It was the ‘prettiest’ to look at. We saw the ‘lecture rooms’ and the monks’ cells as well when we toured the complex. This was the only monastery that had heaps of souvenir stalls outside its premises selling colourful items.
After this, we drove downhill to Sanahin town and saw amazing views of Debed Canyon. The landscape grew greener and lusher. Fields were laden with exquisite wild flowers of yellow, purple, white and red hues.
Mount Aragats
We saw the snow-peaked Mount Aragats from a distance. This mountain is not to be confused with Mount Ararat (, where Noah’s Ark landed). Mount Aragats is an isolated four-peaked volcano massif (comprising a small group of mountains) that arose from rivers and plains around its base. Its highest point is 4,090 metres. It was a divine symbol in Armenian history and culture. Together with Mount Ararat, Mount Aragats was considered sacred because Gregory the Illuminator was believed to have been bathed in light from a holy lantern while praying on the mountain (a sign of eternal purity and vision). St. Gregory is the patron saint of Armenia. He converted the Armenians from paganism to Christianity in the 4th century and is thus highly revered.
Aveluk Braids
Our van stopped on the side of the road for a break and to let us get acquainted with Aveluk. Aveluk is a native Armenian wild mountain sorrel with a slightly sour flavour. Leaves of the aveluk are collected during spring and subsequently braided by the womenfolk. Aveluk braids could be extremely long, sometimes up to four times the height of the women who braid them. The fresh green ones that we saw were simply slung over some chairs to be sold to passers-by. I thought that this was such an authentically rustic sight to behold in the northern outskirts of Armenia. Aveluks can be eaten fresh or dried like a herb.
Gntunik Bakery at Aparan
We had one more stop before arriving at our final destination. It was Gntunik Bakery in a small town called Aparan. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a busier bakery! Crowds milled in and out continuously, purchasing huge quantities of bread and cakes.
Bread was baked in traditional tonir ovens. There was an enormous tonir in the centre of the bakery decorated with colourful mosaic tiles. Shusan bought mushroom rolls and chocolate muffins for all of us.
End of the Journey
When we arrived home and Simon checked the bill, he noticed a very expensive item for 33 AUD! It was a bottle of organic honey! But why was it so expensive?? Because it came in a wooden crafted bee hive whose segments could be taken apart with the help of springs! Hence the add-on cost must have been for this souvenir. The funny thing was that Vera left the bee hive behind on the shelf in the shop, as she figured it was too bulky to carry around. Since Simon paid so much for it, while exploring Yerevan, we collected the hive the following day as a piece of Armenian souvenir!
About the Author
May Ha is a Malaysian-Chinese who grew up in Malacca and Petaling Jaya, Malaysia. She has been a teacher all her life - In Malaysia, she taught ‘A’ Level Sociology; in Melbourne, where she migrated at the turn of the century, she teaches English to adult migrants. Up until 2011, she had travelled to only a handful of countries, mainly in South-East Asia, Australia, New Zealand, the US and Canada. Opportunities to see the world were minimal back then as she had to take care of her elderly parents and could never take long holidays away from home.
When her beloved mother passed, she decided to work as a Casual Relief Teacher only so she could go on holiday whenever and for however long she wanted without needing any approval from her employers.
May was 47 and still a European virgin. She had dreamt of visiting all those exotic and beautiful places in Europe that she always thought were out of her reach, but not for long!
The very first European city that she set foot in was neither Paris nor London, nor Milan, nor Venice. It was Helsinki! Her regular travel partner Simon, who often went to conferences worldwide, had a conference there and she tagged along. She was so excited that she was finally going to her dream continent! Although it was mid-March, 2011, and spring in the Nordic country, it was still terribly cold for her, but she saw snow for the first time and caught snowflakes with her tongue! That memorable trip also took her to Tallinn, St. Petersburg and Stockholm.
From then on, there was absolutely no looking back! To date, she has visited 41 countries!
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